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SİTE
İÇERİĞİ |
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Call
İngilizceCi for Eats
0532 425 46 16 |
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ingilizceCi
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A
Little More Than mere teaching |
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The
Ottoman Cuisine |
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First
You will read an article from the Village Voice of NY City
on Turkish Cooking |
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Istanbul,
95-36 Queens Boulevard
Rego Park, Queens New York
718-275-7555 |
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Counter
Culture
Downloading Döner
New Queens Boulevard Türk turns
up the lights and the charm
by
Robert Sietsema
December 29th, 2005 6:30 PM |
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It's
a rare restaurant that undergoes such a trial and passes with
flying colors. On a recent Sunday afternoon, 10 of us charged
into Istanbul—a new Turkish restaurant in Rego Park—demanding
to be fed in a timely fashion. Hunkering down at a long table
in the rear, we noted that the decor is pure carryout in the
front, where the blinding fluorescent light rivals the sun.
The rear is more elegant, sparingly decorated with the occasional
rug and beaten-copper serving platter, but the light is still
too bright, especially for those who intend to drink any quantity
of Turkish Efes beer ($3.50). As we contemplated our order,
a chef in a billowy white outfit emerged from the kitchen wagging
a long, silver fish by the tail. Of course, we had to have that
fish. |
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It
turned out to be a branzino (seasonal price, $18), which was
rapidly ferried to the gas grill in the front window. As we
waited for our fish, we attacked the meze, or small appetizing
dishes. Anatolians are eggplant crazy, and the menu lists four
treatments of the purple vegetable. There's a baba ghanoush
(patlican ezmesi) about average in smokiness, and another dip
(patlican salatasi) that deducts the tahini from the baba and
adds enough raw garlic and olive oil to leave your lips burning
and glistening. A further pair of appetizers features slices
of fried eggplant, one gobbed with thickened yogurt, the other
awash in a thin and spicy tomato sauce. All eggplant concoctions
are $4, and all come with a warm round homemade loaf.
If
you're not an eggplant fan, other starters beckon. That Sunday
afternoon, we enjoyed cumin-dusted cubes of calf's liver ($7),
feta-filled pastry tubes poetically known as fingers of Fatima
($6), and a spicy dip of pureed red peppers and finely diced
veggies called acili ezme, which sounds like an incurable teenage
skin disease. The apps arrived one or two at a time so we could
properly enjoy them. Pacing is a major problem in many restaurants,
but it's one that's been solved at Istanbul. Of course, 90 percent
of the appetizers are already prepared, requiring the chef to
do no more than wield a large spoon and a small plate. |
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The carnivores
among you are probably perched on the edge of your seats waiting
to hear about the meaty kebabs that make up the entrée half
of Turkish menus. As usual, the adana kebab ($10.99) rocks hardest,
an undulating column of chopped lamb mixed with chiles, with
enough fat to leave it succulent and smelling of the pasture.
Sadly, the lamb doner kebab (a/k/a shawarma or gyro) is often
on the dry side. This can be remedied by ordering iskender kebab,
which downloads the doner onto a bed of toasted pide bread and
bombs it with butter, garlic, yogurt, and tomato sauce. This
gut bomb was invented at a restaurant called Iskender in the
town of Bursa. You can induce the staff at Istanbul to treat
any kebab in this fashion, and the adana is particularly good
this way.
You'll need a cup of Turkish coffee
to restore your biochemical equilibrium after so much grease
and yogurt. And no, you're not supposed to drink the crud
that accumulates at the bottom of the tiny cup.
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SİTE
İÇERİĞİ |
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The
article is from
The Village Voice of New York City Thursday,
january 5, 2006 |
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Recipes** |
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EGGPLANT
DOLMAS
(Patlıcan Dolması) |
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One
kilo of eggplants will be put into salted water with their stemless
heads cut off and innards removed. Four or five medium-sized
onions are finely chopped and slightly fried in olive oil in
a pan. The removed eggplant innards are cooked in a separate
saucepan and stuffed back into the eggplants together with one
glass of washed rice, salt, pepper and mint. The heads cut before
will be put back on the eggplants and a hole will be made in
their bottoms with a sharp-pointed knife. All the eggplants
are laid into the saucepan, cooked in water enough to cover
them all and served when cold. |
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Mixed
Dolmas |
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Six
medium-sized onions are finely chopped and placed into a saucepan
together with two tablespoonfuls of pine nuts. The mixture is
fried until the nuts turn light brownish. 1,5 glasses of rice
is added and turned a few times. Salt to taste is added. One
tablespoonful of sugar, 2,5 glasses of water and two table spoonfuls
of pine nuts are put on the mixture which will be cooked until
it loses all its water. Cinnamon, pimento, black pepper and
two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice is added together with finely
chopped parsley and dill. The saucepan is removed from the fire
and let to ripen for about the minutes. The prepared materials
will then be filled into vine leaves and bell peppers. Both
will be cooked separately with sufficient water to cover them
up. When cooled, the dolmas will be served together with slices
of lemon. |
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Meat
and Eggplant Stew |
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Four
eggplants are skinned, cut in thin lengthwise slices and fried
in liquid fat, and cooked until they soften together with Half
a kilo of walnut-size chunks of meat, chopped onions, tomato
paste, salt, black pepper, fat and water. Eggplant slices are
placed on a tray in crosswise twins. The cooked meat is placed
on the centre and eggplants are bundled. Round slices of tomato
are put on top of each bundle and toothpicks are pushed into
it in order to keep the bundles together, Sauced water in the
saucepan is poured into the tray and cooked for about 15 to
20 minutes before serving warm. |
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ALTAR
FRITTER
(Kol Böreği) |
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Five
or six eggs broken into water with some ash together with three
tablespoonfuls of cooking fat and salt are beaten thoroughly
and flour is slowly added to it and a dough made of it. Apple-sized
clumps are made of this dough. At another side, a stuffing is
prepared with cheese, parsley, two eggs, the roast of two finely
chopped medium-sized onions and 300 grammes of ground meat.
Hands are oiled and fine sheets are rolled from the dough clumps.
The stuffing is placed lengthwise into the sheets which are
then rolled and placed into an oiled tray. Melted butter is
poured on it before the tray is put into furnace. Note: Clean
ash of charcoal is mixed with water and let to repose. A clear
water will be obtained when the ash settles at the bottom. This
water is used as baking powder; it also helps to have a soft
fritter. The ash water prepared with one glass of brazier ash
and four glasses of water is sufficient for a quarter kilo of
flour. |
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PAPER-CLAD
KEBAB
(Kağıt Kebabı) |
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One
kilo of meat from chest or leg side will be chopped without
removing their bones and thoroughly mixed with two finely-chopped
medium-sized onions, salt and pepper to taste, pimento and sweet-basil
and left for about half an hour to become seasoned. It will
then be put on an oil paper of which for ends will be brought
together, tied with a string, cooked on a low fire and served
hot. |
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Lamp
Liver Stew |
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One
piece of lamp intestinal sheet is washed thoroughly and kept
in one glassful of lukewarm water. 350 grammes of lamb's liver
is skinned and finely ground together with 150 grammes of lungs.
Salt to taste is added and the mixture is cooked until its own
juice into which it is poured evaporates. Half a water glass
of rice is washed. A heaped tablespoon of pine nuts are fried
in a saucepan until they become light brown and rice is added.
One glass of hot water, salt and dried currant is put on the
nuts and cooked until the water evaporates. Finely chopped green
onions are added to the mixture and blended together. Liver,
mint and black pepper is added to the rice mixture. Intestinal
sheet is taken out of water, the cooked mixture is placed into
it and closed to the shape of a bundle on which the beaten yolk
of an egg is swiped and the bundle is cooked for 40 to 45 minutes
in medium fire with the addition of water. |
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SİTE
İÇERİĞİ |
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History
* |
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There
are also certain Turkish names such as "barbunya"
(red mullet) originating from Italian, which was probably first
used in the Greek language.
Turning our attention to Central and Eastern Anatolia, the Armenian
cuisine is found in these regions. Armenian and Iranian dishes
have a lot of similarities. For example, meat dishes cooked
with fruits such as plum or quince are present in both cuisines.
However these dishes were not too popular in the Ottoman kitchens.
It is possible to deduce that the meat dishes with vegetables,
"basti" (stew, ragouts) and "musakka" (stewed
eggplant) spread and improved as a result of Eastern influences
("musakka" is in-fact an Arabic word). |
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Stuffed
Okras |
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Under
the integration of a grand Empire, the interaction and exchange
between these different cultures must have been a fascinating
process. This could not be seen as a one-way process, whereby
the Turks took from the Anatolian Greeks and Armenians or vice-versa.
According
to reliable sources, by the end of the seventeenth century,
the Topkapi Palace archives recorded that the main food items
bought were sheep and grain. Also at the time, the "Bostanci
Ocagi" (Bostanci: person in-charge of the land plot for
farming fruit and vegetables. Ocak: regiment of the Ottoman
army) guarded the Palace. This regiment was both a military
force guarding the Palace as well as a group responsible for
growing fruit and vegetables in the Palace grounds. "Lady's
Fingers" (Okra) and "Cabbage Regiments" were
established much earlier, during the reign of Mehmet I. Henceforth,
the vegetables were grown in excessive quantities and this
"excess" was traded under certain conditions to
provide extra income for this regiment.
It
was in the wake of the eighteenth century that food was appreciated
for the pleasure of the palate, cooking techniques were refined
and the variety of dishes ballooned. During the rapid expansion
era of the Ottoman Empire, the sultans had intrinsically strong
military ethics. Further, the Muslim principles did not avail
opulence.
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PILAF
WITH DOUGH CRUST |
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It
was probably during the reign of Süleyman The Magnificent, which
in some ways marked the golden age of the Ottoman history, that
the ostentatious feasts and flamboyant costumes and ceremonies
were taking place.
The most talked about
example is of Vizier Ibrahim Pasa, who offered "hosaf"
(a desert made of stewed fruits) to Süleyman in bowls made
of ice, specially brought from the Uludag Mountain during
his son's circumcision ceremony. However, I am of the opinion
that even for this period such spectacular feasts were the
exception rather than the rule and, thus I believe that this
occasion is remembered because of the sensation it created.
After the death of Süleyman and the I. Vienna Besiegement,
the path for both military development and expansion was interrupted.
To summarize, the conditions for military expansion were eliminated.
In the middle of the seventeenth century, let alone the expansion
possibility, it was a challenge just to hold on to the lands
already occupied. When a substantial amount of land was lost
as a result of the peace settlement signed at the end of the
century in Karlofça, the hope to regain the lost land was
gone. Thus, the mood of the Ottomans was quite different at
the beginning of the eighteenth century. In this period referred
to as the "Tulip Period", we see the initial attempts
to become westernized. However, the most challenging problem
for the Empire was to make people accept its supremacy under
these new conditions. The Imperial heritage was based on the
strong image of the sultan as a "Conqueror", however
there was little opportunity to prove such power any longer.
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Similar
conditions lead to similar results. We also see among Ottomans,
a parallel role as played by Louis XIV in the evolution of the
French cuisine. The sultan had invited the elites, the powerful
persons and families of the country to collective consumption
instead of collective war. In this period, the large areas on
the Bosphorus had been donated to such families and individuals.
Grand feasts were organized in Sadabad on the Golden Horn and
similar open-air picnic and amusement grounds. Pleasure and
joy, the first things associated with the "Tulip Period"
had started. |
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History,
be it good or bad, is always full of contradictions. "Decadence"
has negative connotations, however, "decadence" also
leads to refinement in many areas. Many social thinkers, including
Ibn Haldun and Dr. Hikmet Kivilcimli deliberated
the close interrelation between "civilization" and
"degeneration". The Tulip Period was exactly as such.
For instance, most of the elites in this period were trying
to grow new varieties of the tulip. In the meantime, Nedim-i
Seyda, a famous Ottoman poet, was writing lyrics, called "ghazel",
(a special kind of poem, that can be adapted to music).
Sharing
extravagance with the upper classes appeases them and affirms
the supremacy of the sultan, who represents the state. But
then, one enters a vicious cycle: how does one control the
"ordinary", not being part of this circle of pleasure?
As a matter of fact, the Tulip Period ended with a public
revolt. Since the conditions of the Ottoman culture did not
allow for a social "revolution" similar to those
in Western countries, the Patrona Uprising replaced the sultan
and those surrounding him, however similar to the other uprisings
that took place before or after, it did not alter the system.
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Although
much attention has been given to the Ottoman history, it is
not so easy to isolate a country's cuisine from its history.
As far as the rich Ottoman cuisine that we know today is concerned,
the most important developmental steps were taken during these
chaotic years. Dishes like "tandir" (meat roasted
in a large pit), "püryan" (I could not find what
kind of dish was this), "kuyu kebabi" (pit kebab)
had probably existed in earlier days. However, much of the
fine-tuning in techniques was applied in this period and developed
later.
For
instance, our dishes are substantially similar to those of
Greece; most of them are identical. Nationalistic sentiments
aside, our dishes are generally better, although their origin
is Greek. The reason for this, I believe, is that the capital
of the Ottoman Empire was in Turkey. Accordingly, the care,
the meticulousness, the technique is more advanced here. Naturally,
this is not my judgment alone. Besides many observers - and
most convincingly - the Greek citizens who migrated from Turkey,
especially from Istanbul confirm this. I remember that in
the restaurants and taverns managed by these people in Greece,
the guarantee that "the quality of food is not lower
than in Istanbul" is communicated.
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I
have visited restaurants where traditional dishes are served
in Belgrade and Sofia. It is certain that these traditional
dishes have an Ottoman origin and generally their names are
the same: "sikembe", "kapama" etc. Offal
is an important category in this region. Again the same: the
one cooked in Istanbul is better. Istanbul and Paris are similar
in this regard, namely, they are the capitals and centers of
politics as well as culture and therefore center of the more
refined gourmet cuisine. Nevertheless, this is not the case
for China, which has one of the world's grandest cuisines: alongside
the capital Beijing, Canton or Shanghai have always existed
as important and different gastronomic centers. In the final
analysis, neither Istanbul nor Paris could assimilate all the
local cuisines. In diverse regions of France, there are dishes
unknown to those in the capital. This is also the case for Turkey.
For example, the cuisine of Gaziantep is really rich and has
good qualities, however, the authentic dishes of Gaziantep have
not entered the Istanbul kitchen. Similarly, most dishes from
the "Laz" culture in the Black Sea region have remained
local - if the Pafuli Restaurant had not opened, it would not
be possible to eat "mihlama" or bean pickles in Istanbul,
today. Recently however, many European dishes have been introduced
in the diet that we call "Turkish", from tomato soup
to roasted meat with mashed potato. As a final point, within
the wide framework of what is referred to as the Ottoman cuisine,
"home-made dishes" have an important place. Many dishes
with intricate and complex steps, such as "dolma"
(stuffed dishes), "mantı" (Turkish ravioli) and variety
of layered & filled pastry (börek), "içli köfte"
(meatballs coated with cracked-wheat), in short "complicated",
are also cooked in the homes. |
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Naturally
this phenomenon is itself the consequence of a long and complicated
history, but let's not delve into this. Briefly, this fact is
due to the late development of the restaurants and the almost
integrated lives of the rich and the poor in the traditional
Istanbul life. This is comparable to the Chinese in certain
aspects, however not so much to the French. The second point
is that among the Ottomans as among the Chinese, the prevalence
of the middle class conditions had a strong impact of traditionalism
in cooking methods (ingredients, time and style of cooking and
so on). While in France, since the "restaurant" has
a strong, determining position, "novelty" and creativity"
factors have taken precedence. Today however, especially among
the urban and upper-middle classes and for families where both
men and women work, this situation has dramatically changed.
The irony of having to go to a restaurant to have a home-cooked
meal has almost become a daily reality. |
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We provide an extract
from the book, "Cuisine Culture Throughout History",
written by Murat Belge and published by İletişim Yayınları. |
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*Turkish
Time. Türkiye İhracatçılar Meclisi Yayın Organından alınmıştır.
Copied from Publication of the Turkish exporters Association. |
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**
Recipes
belong to MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND TOURISM REPUBLIC OF TURKEY |
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SİTE
İÇERİĞİ |
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We
are Thankful to Focus Multi-media editors for the following
valuable info on Turkish Cusine |
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The
Story of Turkish Food: A Prologue |
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A
Nurturing Environment |
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Kitchen
of the Imperial Palace |
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A
Repertory of Food at the Great-Good Places |
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Grains:
Bread to Borek |
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Grilled
Meats |
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Vegetables |
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"Meze"
Dishes to Accompany the Spirits |
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Fish
and other Sea-Food |
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The
Real Story of Sweets: Beyond the Baklava |
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Beverages:
Coffee and "Ayran" andmore |
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The
Food Protocol for The Culturally Correct |
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Food
and Spirituality |
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Contemporary
Concerns: Diet and Health |
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RECIPES
of TURKISH KITCHEN |
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*
Soup |
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*
Hors D'oeuvre and Salad |
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* Pastries |
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* Fish
and Seafood |
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*
Vegetable Dishes in Olive Oil |
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*
Vegetable Dishes with Meat |
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*
Meat Dishes |
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*
Desserts |
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ingilizce
Ci |
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A Little
More Than mere teaching |
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0532
425 46 16 |
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Size
Göre Ne Olmalı? |
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*
Özel
Üniversiteler ne
işe yarar?
*
Yurtdışında basılan ders kitapları aslında paçavramı?
* Dersanede
ingilizce
Öğrenilirmi?
* Haydi
i$ Yapalım
* Yabancı
Öğretmen Ne Demektir?
* Öğretmenler Bilgisayarları Ne zaman sevecek?
* İngilizceci
Kadın
olmazsa olmazmı?
*
Yurtdışı kaynaklı ders kitapları aslında paçavramı?
*
Kopyeci
öğrenci nasıl ödüllendirilir?
* Bu
ülkede TeacherTraining Yürürmü?
* ingilizceyi
Konuşmak Neden Bu Denli Zor?
* Şu
Class Observation Dedikleri
de Ne Ola?
* Kötü
Öğrenci Olabilirmi?
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Uzman
Öğretim Elemanından
İngilizce
Özel
Ders
0532
425 46 16 |
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ingilizce
Ci'de
okuyacak araştıracak o denli çok şey var ki! |
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*
M.K.Atatürk's
Life and Achievements
*
What Does
ingilizceCi Do?
* Football Terms
*
Travel: Visit Greece
* Funny
English
* Secrets
of İstiklal Street
* Have
You Seen Lada Karina
* Laws of Murphy
: Why Things Go Wrong
* How
to Groom Your
Dear Cat?
* Bosphorus
is Always Beautiful
* Observing
Turgoda!
People
* Traditional
Turkish Cooking
* Planning
an Adventure trip,Read This
* Chinese Hints
for Good Luck
* Günlük
Konuşmaları Okuyun
* Katili Bulun
* A
day in New York Subway
* Eğitim
ve Uğraş ve Danışmanlığı
* How to
use Mobile Phones
* Yeni
Başlayanlara
Taktikler
* Öğretmenlere
yaz aylarında ek iş fikirleri
*
Neden ingilizce Ci var?
*
New York
Times Headlines
*
Other
Papers in
English
*
Turgoda Tourism: A day-dream or a Fiasco |
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Uzman
Öğretim Elemanından
İngilizce
Özel
Ders
0532 425 46 16 |
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Test Your English |
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* Kolay
Test
* İngilizce Düzeyinizi Görün
*
Başlangıç Düzeyi
* Ön Orta
Düzey
* Orta Düzey
* İleri
* Present Progressive Exercises
* Do veya Make
Testi
* Ön Orta Düzey Zamanlar Sınavı
* Reading
Başlangıç Düzeyi
* Preposition
Sınavı
* Diagnostik Sınav
*
Sayılırmı Sayılmazmı?
* Business English Quiz
* Active Passive Exercises in Past Tense
* "The"
Exercises
* What's
Wrong With the Sentence |
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İngilizce
Öyküler |
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Başlangıç
Sibel's Choice
Orta
Eralp's
Getaway
İleri
Camelot
Genel
The
Signalman
The Prisoner
of Zenda
Mad
The
BodySnatcher
New God
Kill Machine |
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